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The Sheepshead Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Sheepshead

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Direct South Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Great Pig in the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Greedy Little Varmint T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Poultry Emulsion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ranch Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shepherd, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13
	Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Elevation:	6,165 ft	1,879 m
GPS:	31.87031, -109.99388 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	James DeRoussel on Sep 3, 2002
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Description

The Sheepshead, this area's namesake, is the huge sweeping dome visible during most of the drive in on Middlemarch Road. It is by far the most prominent and aesthetic piece of rock in the immediate area, though there are a multitude of quality routes on the smaller neighboring domes.

Over 40 routes ascend this vast expanse of granite, most being of moderate to high difficulty (5.9-5.11, Class III). There are some incredible multi-pitch climbs with fantastic exposure. The rock quality is great for the most part, but does contain the occasional loose feature. Routefinding is generally difficult, even with a good topo. Expect scary climbing and frequent runouts on moderate terrain.

For those willing to put in a full day, The Sheepshead offers true adventure climbing.

Getting There

From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road north. Make the first right turn on a dirt road that leads past a windmill to the road's end. Park and hike across the grassy field toward the obvious domes.

When you approach the treeline across the grassy field, trend right toward a major drainage, keeping south of the smaller hills. A trail should vaguely follow this drainage course, leading up the valley below The Sheepshead. If you cannot pick up a trail, just follow the path of least resistance. Make sure you close any gates you may pass along the way.

The trail/drainage course will take you to a point directly under but far below the base of the dome. At this point, a small climber's trail will head off right, up the slope towards Sheepshead. Navigate the brush and slabs up to the base of the climbs.

Allow an hour for the approach. Plan for a long day.

24 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	The Sheepshead Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Sheepshead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 504 ● Ewephoria Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 52 ● Ides of Middlemarch Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 390 ● The Peacemaker Sport 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 83 ● Phony Pony Trad 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 250 ● Absinthe of Mallet Trad 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 129 ● The Climb Too Tough To Die Trad 6 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 46 ● The Tombstone Stripper Trad 6 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 26 ● Bruise the Rooster Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 82 ● Dark Horse Trad 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 70 ● Get The Flock Out Of Here Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 18 ● The Last Roundup Trad 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 29 ● Unmitigated Audacity Sport 7 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 9 ● Bantam of the Opera Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 87 ● Stampede Sport 7 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 15 ● Mad Cow Disease Trad 6 pitches