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Routes in The Nuns
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Bad Habit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Nun, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Holier Than Thou T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unforgiven, The T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Where have the Wild Things Gone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Jay Smith |
| Page Views: | 2,718 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Apr 30, 2004 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The Unforgiven is a three star pitch on the east face of Nuns (perhaps worth four if done as a logical second pitch to Holier Than Thou - see that description).
Climb the first pitch of Holier Than Thou (also 11c), then continue slightly right and straight up past 6 silver bolts before traversing right to gain a diagonaling finger crack which leads to the top of the face. The climbing is technical, fingery, and quite sustained.
One can rap from the summit in three raps with a single 70m rope - the final rap is rope-stretching.
Also, be aware that a lot of the rock is suspect on the Nuns - I fell twice ripping off holds on this pitch, and my partner fell once doing the same. The climbing is really good in spite of this though... I swear.
P.S. I climbed this again in 2007 and the pitch has either cleaned up a lot or my climbing has cleaned up a lot. Probably the latter. But in any case, I didn't rip a single hold off. Oh, and anyone who claims calcite is slippery needs to sample this climb -- the best friction I've ever seen.
Climb the first pitch of Holier Than Thou (also 11c), then continue slightly right and straight up past 6 silver bolts before traversing right to gain a diagonaling finger crack which leads to the top of the face. The climbing is technical, fingery, and quite sustained.
One can rap from the summit in three raps with a single 70m rope - the final rap is rope-stretching.
Also, be aware that a lot of the rock is suspect on the Nuns - I fell twice ripping off holds on this pitch, and my partner fell once doing the same. The climbing is really good in spite of this though... I swear.
P.S. I climbed this again in 2007 and the pitch has either cleaned up a lot or my climbing has cleaned up a lot. Probably the latter. But in any case, I didn't rip a single hold off. Oh, and anyone who claims calcite is slippery needs to sample this climb -- the best friction I've ever seen.
Photos
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