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The West Arete (of T1)
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British X
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Redgarden - Tower One
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Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Layton Never S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Consummation Nite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dandelion Wine S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Disclosure (new name) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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E.L. 200 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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E.L.100 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Eleven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R |
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Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Route T C2+ |
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Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Parting Shot T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Psychosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rocky Raccoon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rover T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: |
Trad
Fixed Hardware
(3) |
| FA: | Steve Monks, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 2,833 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 9, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Maybe I just had a bad day my first time on it, but this route spooked me, and I didn't even lead it. This route make you so make you so nervous that if you fart, dogs will cry. The second time, a decade later, on lead, it seemed more reasonable - in control, actually. Be sure to be having a good day before getting on it.
Approach Via any climb that will take you to the Red Ledge. This would include the Yellow Spur, Rewritten, The Great Zot, The Green Spur, etc....
From the Red Ledge, traverse to the right from the Swanson Arete, Icarus or Daedalus, or from to the left from the start of the fourth pitch of The Yellow Spur. A few meters left of the Yellow Spur's P4 is an obvious clean arete with some chalked slopers and crimpers. For the first thirty feet, the arete overhangs on the right side and is slabby on the left. Solo up this arete until nearly even with the roof pitch of the Yellow Spur. You will pass 2 pins in all, and some trad gear will have since appeared on the left, as well. From this point you will continue climbing the arete and occasionally getting gear just to the left from the arete onto the face, as for the right side of Icarus. This is about a full pitch of climbing. Some gear is to be had on the face in general, and the climbing becomes easier toward the top.
After joining the edge of the Icarus face for a pitch, both routes will move out and right to finish on the 5.6 (S) arete of the Yellow Spur.
The opening arete of this route is beautiful and exposed, but a little insecure and pretty runout.
Note: the entire length of this pitch can be run together in ~85m. We did it as such recently on a 70m rope and simul-climbed the last 15m or so. A traxion or other device would be a good idea, since some of the lower moves are iffy.
Approach Via any climb that will take you to the Red Ledge. This would include the Yellow Spur, Rewritten, The Great Zot, The Green Spur, etc....
From the Red Ledge, traverse to the right from the Swanson Arete, Icarus or Daedalus, or from to the left from the start of the fourth pitch of The Yellow Spur. A few meters left of the Yellow Spur's P4 is an obvious clean arete with some chalked slopers and crimpers. For the first thirty feet, the arete overhangs on the right side and is slabby on the left. Solo up this arete until nearly even with the roof pitch of the Yellow Spur. You will pass 2 pins in all, and some trad gear will have since appeared on the left, as well. From this point you will continue climbing the arete and occasionally getting gear just to the left from the arete onto the face, as for the right side of Icarus. This is about a full pitch of climbing. Some gear is to be had on the face in general, and the climbing becomes easier toward the top.
After joining the edge of the Icarus face for a pitch, both routes will move out and right to finish on the 5.6 (S) arete of the Yellow Spur.
The opening arete of this route is beautiful and exposed, but a little insecure and pretty runout.
Note: the entire length of this pitch can be run together in ~85m. We did it as such recently on a 70m rope and simul-climbed the last 15m or so. A traxion or other device would be a good idea, since some of the lower moves are iffy.
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