The West Face

This and the neighboring Northwest Corner Route are two of the finest alpine rock climbs I have had the pleasure to yet accomplish. Great movement, committing moves, huge exposure, beautiful position: some of the best climbs in the Washington Pass area.

P1: The West Face shares its first pitch with the Northwest Corner, a somewhat dirty face up to a chimney with trees above (5.8). From here, move the belay up 3rd class terrain to a huge sandy ledge at the base of a large corner, the base of the second pitch. 160ft. (5.8)

P2: Climb a steep right facing corner with good cracks and gear. 60 feet to a good belay ledge at a wide. It is recommended to belay here as it will reduce rope drag on the next pitch. 60 ft. (5.8)

P3: Take a low angle crack up to large #6 lieback flake. Follow flakes up to an airy step right from the flakes to a bolt and then sustained 5.9 undercling/liebacking right and then up into a corner crack/lieback that contains a piton. Follow up into easier climbing on cool rock and then step out left when the crack of the crux pitch becomes visible. Belay on a ledge below the finger crack. 90 ft. (5.9+)

 P4: The crux pitch (5.11-) begins at the end of the undercling, so get psyched. Climb the thin tips (!) crack up and a little left until it eases up and you can step left into the next crack system. Build a belay here (~60 feet up) or continue up another thin finger crack (5.10c) until it opens up to 2" and eases off to 5.8. Set up a hanging belay here. 150 ft. (5.11-) 

P5: Follow easier low angle crack climbing Eventually the crack will end and you will need to make a friction slab traverse right into another broken crack system that will continue to the top of the route.  Build a gear anchor or continue another 50 feet up to a bolted anchor where the chockstone rappel is. Be careful off rope drag after the slab traverse. 150ft. (5.7)

There are certainly different ways to break up the upper pitches, it can either go as 2 or 3 pitches based on your comfort level, rope drag and amount of gear available for anchors. 

The original descent is down and (skier's) left of the summit and descends into the notch between North and South Early Winter Spire. Three single rope raps bring you down to the notch (often snow-covered), another gets you off the large chockstone (a fun, free-hanging rappel), and some scrambling and down-climbing (or a short 30 foot rap on a tree) get you back on the ground. 

A newer descent starts about 15' climber's right of the end of the finishing jams. There is four fairly new bolted rap stations and a tree rappel for the last section. 

Look for the low angle cracks leading to a tree-topped chimney left side of the west face as you approach the base of the tower. Shares the start with NW corner. 

Doubles from 0.1"-3". Consider bringing triples of tips/fingers if climbing at your limit. Wires can be nice as well. The crux pitch 5.11- and the 5.10 above it eat small stoppers like candy.