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California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Main Formation
> Main Wall
Traveler Buttress
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 412
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Batman's Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deadpool T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eeyore's Ecstacy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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R.I.P. S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Travelin' Man T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yankee Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Dick Long, Al Steck, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 44,127 total · 193/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Apr 4, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The crux of this route is the notorious offwidth second pitch. It can be well protected with a #4 Camalot placed deep in the crack. Most parties prefer two #4s though I have led it safely with one #3.
The first pitch starts down on the Tombstone ledge and is a 5.7 serrated crack that has a short flaring 5.8 crux up high. Careful on the crux, it comes just above an ankle crushing ledge.
The second pitches O.W. is rewarded by one of the best hand cracks at the Leap.
The third pitch climbs a rapidly steepening face to a fixed pin and then rounds a very windy and exposed arete, across an exposed ledge and up to two fixed pins that can be backed up with a .75" piece.
The rest of the route is a classic 4th-class to easy-5th-class dike hike that climbs up the face to the top. Not much harder than climbing a ladder.
The first pitch starts down on the Tombstone ledge and is a 5.7 serrated crack that has a short flaring 5.8 crux up high. Careful on the crux, it comes just above an ankle crushing ledge.
The second pitches O.W. is rewarded by one of the best hand cracks at the Leap.
The third pitch climbs a rapidly steepening face to a fixed pin and then rounds a very windy and exposed arete, across an exposed ledge and up to two fixed pins that can be backed up with a .75" piece.
The rest of the route is a classic 4th-class to easy-5th-class dike hike that climbs up the face to the top. Not much harder than climbing a ladder.
Location
Start on the Tombstone ledge and follow a serrated crack just to the right of Boot hill. Or you can skip the first pitch (not recommended) and start at the offwidth second pitch just around the corner from Corrugation Corner. If you skip the first pitch, sorry, "you have not climbed Travelers Buttress" only part of it.
To reach Tombstone Ledge, follow the approach trail up and left to the base of a smaller wall below the main ledge which hosts the obvious features of broken flakes sticking up out of the ground like giant tombstones. The start of Travelers buttress is the obviously well worn, serrated crack system just right of the sport route "Boot Hill".
To reach Tombstone Ledge, follow the approach trail up and left to the base of a smaller wall below the main ledge which hosts the obvious features of broken flakes sticking up out of the ground like giant tombstones. The start of Travelers buttress is the obviously well worn, serrated crack system just right of the sport route "Boot Hill".
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