Tony B Around Boulder, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Despite being one of the shorter climbs in this canyon, (only 3 pitches are usually done...) this is a wonderful route fully deserving of classic status.As well, the 5.10 grade is about right for Redrocks, but be advised that the climb will feel soft for the grade relative to most other areas. Feb 27, 2004

George Bell Boulder, CO   5.10

[Hide Comment] The latest electronic SuperTopo guide has some great history on the first ascent and free attempts of this route, and they call it the first "real" rock climb of any significant length in Red Rocks. Evidently Randal Grandstaff did the first free lead of the crux. I have no affiliation with these guides and I highly recommend their Red Rock guide, although they have upped the price a bit. Cool photos too! Mar 3, 2004

John Peterson

[Hide Comment] As the guys say, a classic climb! Don't skip pitch 4 - it's another good one. The only thing I'll add is that a couple of extra hand-sized pieces will make pitches 2 + 3 go a little smoother. John Mar 8, 2004

10b4me   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Do yourself a favor and climb the 4th pitch. It is one of the best crack/corner pitches I've done in Red Rocks and is much more sustained at about 5.10 than the lower pitches. When I climbed it we summited, but there were fixed bolts at the top of the 4th pitch. I still can't figure out how people stop on the top of the third pitch after looking at the beautiful corner above. Sep 7, 2005

Chad Umbel Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] This is one high quality route. Bring extra cams from 2-3 inches unless you like to watch the rope dangle far beneath your feet. A must do Red Rocks Classic. Jan 2, 2006

Chris W Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] I'd recommended doing pitch 4 and then rapping...single rope rap as I recall from there, then a double?...we combined p2 and 3 as well. if you're solid on cracks, no need to bring more than doubles. Caveat emptor. Apr 5, 2006

Greg Barnes

[Hide Comment] Finally joined this site, Larry didn't even pressure me! As John posted, we replaced the 3rd and 4th pitch anchors and the pro bolt on pitch 4. Details: the 3rd pitch anchor had 3 bolts, 2 of which had pulled out (a 1/4" split-shaft and a 3/8" Star-Dryvin). I reused the 1/4" hole, patched the 3/8" Star-Dryvin hole, and drilled a new bolt; both are 1/2 x 2.75" stainless 5-pieces. The 3rd bolt is a 3/8" split-shaft bolt without hanger; we didn't have the proper tools to remove this (well, we could have, but that would have risked damaging the rock excessively). I'll try to get back and pull/patch that sooner or later. The rock is not the greatest, and I suspect that even the new 1/2" bolts will loosen in time. The classic 1/4" Star-Dryvin protection bolt on pitch 4 (photo in Red Rock Odyssey) pulled easily, and I drilled through the lead sleeve with no problem (not something to try if the steel sleeves are still in the hole!). That bolt is also a stainless 1/2" x 2.75" 5-piece. The funky 5/16" euro bolts on top of pitch 4 were weird, and in a slightly suspect section of rock, so the new bolts are about a foot lower. Those are stainless 3/8" x 2.25" 5-pieces (better rock there), and Anthony Anagnostou helped hand-drill them. Thanks to Constantine Severis and Anthony for helping out with the replacement! And to the video guys who let me jug their lines to pitch 3, that sped things up. Greg Barnes Apr 10, 2006

Karsten Duncan Sacramento, CA

[Hide Comment] I did the route a couple of days ago and assume GB had already been there since all the anchors were big and beefy. Still I would have liked the star bolt to have been left for historical purposes. Overall the best rock at redrocks I have done so far!!! Can I give a climb 5 stars! It'll be interesting someday when the flake or lodged rocks on pitch 4 come off. Apr 12, 2006

Drederek Olympia, WA   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] Great Climb! Combined 1 and 2 without any problems. I found it to be perfect hands from the low crux to end of 3. Hexes worked very well. Pitch 4 was amazing, my partner dubiously slung the diving board, stepped up and got this huge grin on his face when he saw the bolt! A climb we'll do again I'm sure. One 60m rope rappell from top of 4 to 3 (29 meters!) then 2 double rope raps May 4, 2006

Danny Inman Arvada   5.10

[Hide Comment] spectacular route! I followed this with Wholesome fullback and thought Triassic Sands was easier IMHO. Oct 10, 2006

Andy Laakmann Bend, OR   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Classic stuff! We only had opportunity for the first three pitches (late start w/ approaching darkness). Too bad, as P4 looks like an awesome Indian Creek style corner. The crux of P2 is pumpy, but ample chalk leads the way... Aliens/TCUs protect the business portion of the crux, with a #1 or #2 camalot to finish. Once past the crux, expect 100+ feet of 5.8 handcrack, with one little section of 5.9. Outside of a short thin section(the 5.9 bit), pretty much #2 and #3 camalots the entire way in the hand crack... so either have plenty of those cams or expect to run it out. I brought a #4 camalot, and got it in on P2 and P3, but a #3.5 would have been better. P3 is fun, good gear, with a fun little chimney-ish finish. P4 looks rad! Next time.... Two double raps to the ground. If the belay atop P2 is taken, there is a a bomber set of chains just down and left of the belay that can be used for descent. Apparently the bolt line below this anchor is a 10a sport route. Looks fun too. Nov 10, 2008

Mark Overdevest Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Incredible route. Top it out! Pitch 4 is not to be missed - (though my belayer told me after that the block on the left was loose it felt solid when pulled down on). Good anchors. We brought trips in #2 & #3 camalot, plenty of stopper options, should have left the 4 at home. Apr 8, 2009

Jon OBrien Nevada   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Agreed, the rating is soft if you only do the first 3 pitches... the real climbing is on pitch 4: definitely harder than pitch 2 (and better!) Rumors of a dangerous 4th pitch are not accurate, just avoid the diving board block before the corner, i'm big and clumsy and had no problem avoiding it.. :-) REFLECTION TWO YEARS LATER: as i've settled into the tens i tend to think that triassic sands is fully soft. the 4th pitch is a more imaginative OS but has so many rest stances. the 2nd pitch (best combined with 1st i feel, sets up a happier belay situation) is a one move wonder and might be graded 5.9 in paradise forks. still an incredible climb but i think an exciting, exposed 10a is more accurate. Apr 21, 2009

Tyler Williams Flagstaff, AZ   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Wow. Best route I've done in RR? Definitely do not miss the 4th pitch - it was fantastically fun. Not quite as hard as the 2nd pitch crux, IMO. The giant shark fin block was a little scary; it seemed solid vertically, but when touched it moved a few inches to the left. I don't think it's going anywhere though. I still can't quite get over how much fun this route was. Oct 17, 2010

Doug Foust Oroville, WA   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] My new favorite climb in Red Rock. The climbing above the fourth pitch is not 4th class like the Handren book states. Although not difficult, the routefinding, fragile/lichen covered rock, loose rock, detached blocks, and potential rope drag make for some thoughtful leading. Once to the top you can stay high and head straight towards Whiskey Peak eventually passing just to right where you will end up on the frogland descent just up above the saddle. Nov 1, 2010

Sean Oak Park, CA

[Hide Comment] P2 felt the hardest, starting with pumpy athletic fun, leading to continuous hand jamming joy, or juggy edges if one prefers. P4 is really really good. Wild. Fantastic. Do it. FYI: almost got one of our half ropes stuck rapping from top of P4 to top of P3, with long loops having slipped into a splitter and down through, at about 3/4 of the way down, blocking the rest of the rap. Took some effort to work the loops out. There was a scrap strand just below ours, cut from the stuck rope of a previous party. In hindsight, best to rap this pitch with the ends (or intermediate pts as well) clipped to the harness. Apr 7, 2011

Phil Esra   5.10a/b

[Hide Comment] 4th pitch is the best pitch on the route. can rap from p4. 4 stars. Apr 25, 2011

Jon OBrien Nevada   5.10a

[Hide Comment] anyone able to comment accurately on when she goes into the shade this time of year? grazie! jon Jun 2, 2011

Jon OBrien Nevada   5.10a

[Hide Comment] word, gracias amigo! jon Jun 7, 2011

Andy Hansen Longmont, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Route sees very little sun. It was in the shade all day (10am through the whole day on Sept. 20) and was a pleasant climb overall. The crux pitch is a bit heady, not too sustained and the hand crack that follows is super. The Handren book is misleading as to how long the last pitch is. I'd say it's more in the 350-400 ft. length and the moves off the anchors after the 4th pitch are definitely still in the 5th class range. Roughly 5.6. Be careful. The top out is exceptional! Sep 21, 2011

Chris Lawrence Colorado Springs, CO

[Hide Comment] This route is one of my top 3 at Red Rocks. The crux moves on pitch 2 are a bit challenging but the pro is excellent. I would definitely recommend 4 #2s and at least 4 #3 Camalots for this really long pitch, and save a few of the #3s for the top unless you don't mind running out 5-9 splitter crack climbing section. Leave anything beyond a #3 at home...you won't need it. The 4th pitch is more fun than hard. Oct 12, 2011

Spencer Weiler Grand Junction

[Hide Comment] Stellar 3 pitch climb. Pitch 1 is awesome with good feet for stances, and the 90 foot hand crack after is sweet! 3 each yellow and blue camalots. Ends on a small but adequate ledge. Pitch 2 is easy 5.8 patina/crack action up a fun hand crack with a rightward traverse to a corner, that ends on a fat ledge. Pitch 3's shark fin sword cantilever beam action is scary to behold as it could easily kill your belayer if it pulled. Look above the small bulge for the bomber bolt to protect this move. Highly recommend going up and over on this one as rapelling will likely require reclimbing a pitch to get your rope unstuck from the classic red rock rope kidnapping patina. Nov 28, 2011

Clint Helander Anchorage, AK

[Hide Comment] What's up with the completely unnecessary bolt on pitch 3? It's right next to a splitter hand crack. Weak sauce. We didn't clip it. There's no need. Dec 1, 2011

Cunning Linguist

[Hide Comment] The pro bolt on pitch 3 is of mysterious origin, how often does one stumble upon Bluewater stainless hangers floating around? The reason it was put in isn't hard to figure out, clint-the "splitter" you're talking about is a huge wedged hollow block that makes funky sounds when touched. While it's unlikely that even a fat bastard could pull the thing out under body weight, a big fall on gear placed beside it would shift it and probably pull the gear or worse. My vote was for not replacing the bolt just above the Fang, when I first did the route this was a hand-removable star dryvin that was pretty entertaining. What may not be obvious to out-of-towners who come here to climb "classics" is that most if not all of these routes used to have giant deathblocks, friable holds everywhere, and, in the case of Triassic, were established before the Age Of Cams, using direct aid on pitons with some frequency. The bolt isn't necessary NOW, when anyone with a #1 camalot can slam it in and surf the Deathboard with (relative) safety, I bet when they were creeping up that thing back before a five piece bolt had even been invented, that little bit of reassurance went a long way towards psychological buffering for the task of chucking a few dozen bowling-ball sized chunks of sandstone off the Fang so that the creaky bastard could be stood upon. Historical perspecive, sir. Dec 3, 2011

Katya gh

[Hide Comment] Yes, make sure you have a few #2s (they weren't kidding) and save them for after the crux. The crack above isn't hard, just scary if you can't protect it and are tip-toeing around on bits of rock wondering if they'll break off. And if you happen to find and get out a number 4 in the first pitch which I over-cammed as I was walking it up, I would love to get it back as it was my new found partner's piece and he worked on it for quite awhile with no success. I will make a donation in your name to a charity. Thanks so much. cmcdsmith@hotmail.com Mar 19, 2012

Cunning Linguist

[Hide Comment] Anchor replaced on Pitch 2. One of the Rawl shorty bolts that made up the 3 bolt anchor snapped at the threads under hand pressure while removing. Anchor is now 2 stainless 1/2 inch with Fixe ASCA ring hangers. All holes patched. The upper anchors still need some attention to remove old studs from previous incarnations. We didn't have the necessary tools with us, but hope to return and finish the job. Aug 5, 2012

Sean C SLC   5.10

[Hide Comment] Pitch 4 is a must do. Crux on the 2nd is easy and only a couple moves long. Also be very careful where you throw the ropes when repelling. Got our ropes stuck twice in the cracks, almost to the point of having to cut one. Sep 17, 2012

W L NEVADASTAN   5.10

[Hide Comment] Great route, climbed the first few pitches back in November. P2 anchors are really effing high (perhaps due to rope pull on rappel?)...I'm 5'7 and it was a stretch for me. Absolutely stellar route, I mean...jesus, does it get much better than this?!?!!? If you are considering climbing this and are looking at it on MP, go climb it. Seriously. Bring lots of 2's and 3's - we had 3 each, 4 would not go unused. Feb 5, 2013

George Bracksieck

[Hide Comment] The cemented sands that have lingered so long as to provide so much fabulous movement are merely Jurassic, not Triassic. The projecting flake and jammed blocks low on pitch four feel secure enough to use for the next less-yawning stretch of time, and besides, there awaits an obscure bolt, so you can jam instead of cam. Apr 25, 2013

Colin Parker Idyllwild, CA   5.10a

[Hide Comment] For those who care, it is barely possible to rappel from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 2 with a single 80m rope. You will not make it to the rappel anchors out left at the top of Felipe, but if you leave your second rope here above the crux pitch you'll be fine. Apr 28, 2013

Pitty Marbach

[Hide Comment] we climbed it today, absolutely superb!!! The loose shark fin in pitch 4 has been stabilised with a small bolder, now it is fixed and doesn't move if you don't pull sidewards.....For me seems pretty safe, unless you don't really need it...... May 10, 2013

Arch Richardson Grand Junction

[Hide Comment] Second pitch is only 5.9 if you french the crux...a few stiff pulls and you're cruisin the bomber handcrack. There, i said it. Oct 23, 2013

Cunning Linguist

[Hide Comment] ^^^^THAT is some funny shit. Ev, in your world is there some choss park superintendant that is the person in charge of loose rock maintenance and/or shoring up? That big fang will never come out. Many, many happy climbers comfortably free this route every year. All of them accept that climbing desert sandstone involves the occasional loose block, on trade routes. Try a few looser, less traveled routes and see if you find Triassic scary. For instance, in terms of loose rock/bad rock, on a scale of one to ten, Triassic is a one, and Community Pillar would be a six. I've done Triassic a dozen times, replaced bolts on it, chucked loose rock off. The Fang is rather boringly stable these days. It used to be fun when it seesawed around under body weight. Jan 3, 2014

smassey CO

[Hide Comment] This may be the funniest thing I have seen in awhile. Thank you Ev, and of course Senor VaG, for keeping me entertained. Uh, Ev, if you're unfamiliar with American public land management, there's this thing called "Wilderness", and it's designated by our beloved Congress, and this particular route happens to fall within one of them. Typically within "Wilderness", there's no "choss police" or "trammeling" (actions that reflect the hand of man, in case you slept through HS English). Hence, no one "official" is concerned that there is a "loose" block on Route Blah Blah Blah. Or unofficial for that matter... You are free to come and go, and live or die, as you have the knowledge, skills, and ability to... Vegas VaG, I did not find CP to be particularly loose, but then I was admittedly in a relationship at the time... Maybe others have had different experiences... Also, FWIW, the only person I know that could be considered a "choss park superintendent" would be Mike McHugh, and I feel like he would be pretty excited about the (titular) upgrade. Cheers, Mike. Jan 5, 2014

shakey

[Hide Comment] Yo just thought I'd throw it out there, climbed this just before new years, the tooth and the two blocks holding it in place rotated about 20-30 degrees when my buddy pushed against it, so be careful aka don't place any gear before the bolt as it would def. sever the rope... but in the words of Mr. Coyne, 'its no drama' just a bit of dynamic rock climbing Jan 15, 2014

W L NEVADASTAN   5.10

[Hide Comment] The 4th pitch really is fantastic. Don't be scared by all of the babble about the diving board...tread carefully and be rewarded with glory above. Enjoy and be safe! Jul 26, 2014

Patrick Mulligan Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] The fourth pitch is by far the best of the climb IMHO. The Long crack pitches are fun but monotonous and the crux is a 2 move wonder. The fourth pitch has the most consistent and interesting climbing. It would be a waste to skip it. Its been years since I've last done it, but the climb to the top was fun as well and allows you to skip through the multiple parties often on the route. Aug 20, 2014

Peter Lewis Bridgton, ME

[Hide Comment] I hear so much about the nasty "death-block-fang-thingy." If it's so dangerous, why doesn't some local go up on a quiet day and just get rid of the thing? In our area (White Mountains, NH), when we hear about this stuff, someone typically just goes up and deals with it. Seems like an obvious thing to do that would be in everyone's best interest. Safety first, right? (And no, I'm not trying to eliminate the risk inherent to our sport or stir up trouble, this just seems like a no-brainer). Feb 19, 2015

Patrick Mulligan Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] Peter - I think that is because the local climbing community has a better understanding of rock quality and safety of trundling,etc. than visiting climbers who get nervous about sandstone. Sometimes stuff simply breaks on its own with no warning, but that block is both easily avoided and way more solid than it looks. It was basically the same 16 years ago as it is now even with all the traffic and given both the challenge of finding a clear base area (not just at the base of the climb but the slope / trail far below) and the potential to further route damage below the local community obviously and simply doesn't see the need to trundle the thing. Mar 11, 2015

Peter Lewis Bridgton, ME

[Hide Comment] Yup, got it. Thanks for the update! We've got some stuff here, too, that's been suspect forever but is really okay. Haven't done Triassic Sands yet, but next trip probably. We'll tread lightly anyway. Kinda wish I was in RR now, come to think of it, since it's been snowing here for the last three days! Apr 7, 2015

csproul Pittsboro...sort of, NC

[Hide Comment] Truly a classic route. However, there are some loose blocks and questionable flakes. Especially the flake looming at the start of the 4th pitch. Very hard to avoid standing on it, it's huge, it moves, and is right over your belayer...be careful! Apr 22, 2015

Kevin Dahlstrom Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] I solo toproped this route (from the top) today and had a blast. Took 5 hours car-to-car including a bunch of scrambling at the top to figure things out. The top of the route isn't obvious. There is 225 feet of 5th class climbing above the P4 anchor, which I did in 2 raps. I posted some detailed beta on my blog in case anyone else wants to try it: camp4.wordpress.com/2015/05… May 21, 2015

Tony B Around Boulder, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Skipping the 4th pitch would be a darn shame. It's as good as anything else! May 29, 2015

Connor Newman Denver, CO   5.10

[Hide Comment] Go to the top of Whiskey Peak! This involves 2 pitches of easy (5.6) but fun climbing beyond pitch 4, with a little exposure. The descent from the summit takes maybe 25-30 minutes, which might be faster than the raps depending on how much those great Red Rock flakes grab your rope. Jun 1, 2015

Jplotz Cashmere, WA

[Hide Comment] Mind blowingly great route! The 4th pitch is a must do, but mildly terrifying due to the teetering death flake. I accidentally leaned against it and it swiveled about a foot. There is a bolt just up and right of the dagger so you don't have to place any gear on it near it. What I haven't seen commented on are the many detached blocks sitting there above the dagger that people are obviously yarding on judging by the amount of chalk on them. These rocks would be just as lethal as the dagger and every bit as capable of pulling loose if pulled hard enough. But judging by the previous comments, maybe I'm exaggerating. Just my experience in WA. If a block looks detached and loose, it will probably come flying out. Also, the bolted anchor at the top of the third pitch is very loose! You rap off these, so beware! I could move both bolts easily with my fingers. Oct 25, 2015

yann gauthier val david

[Hide Comment] Do pitch 4 , one # 3 camelot and smaller, leave the rest on the ledge for pitch 4 Nov 19, 2015

Kyle Goupil Salt Lake City

[Hide Comment] Just wanted to echo that it would be a shame if you didnt do pitch 4. Its the best one on the route in my opinion. So good! Nov 24, 2015

Kevin D Phoenix, AZ

[Hide Comment] Do pitch 4. Really fun and different style. We went to the top of whisky peak (2 5th class pitches) but I think rapping would have been much faster as long as your rope doesn't snag. Also you can get by with 2 #2 and 2#3 if you are creative with slinging horns, nuts, horizontal placements etc. Mar 13, 2016

Gerry Egbalic Vanlife

[Hide Comment] one 80m rope will get you down. _from 4th to 3rd pitch, we had about extra 20' feet of rope left (on both sides) _from 3rd to 2nd, barely enough but will get you to the bolted anchors safely _from 2nd to 1st. veer right and get off the big ledge. dont pass this - your rope will be about 20' short to the ground. walk towards the right end of the ledge, there is a bomber rap ring slung on a horn as always, TIE THE END OF YOUR ROPE before rapping down! Mar 21, 2016

Derek Field Nevada   5.10

[Hide Comment] Triassic Sands is a strong candidate for the best multi-pitch route in Red Rock. Those obsessed with crack climbing will be obliged to agree. P1: Surprise! It's X-rated without big cams. Thankfully very easy. (5.7) P2: Does it get any better than this?!? The crux is awesome and exposed, and leads into one of the dreamiest hand cracks I've ever seen. Bring as many #2 cams as you've got. (5.10) P3: Very fun face climbing with lots of gear options! (5.8) P4: The Indian Creek splitter corner! There are some REALLY nice hand jams on this pitch. It's easier to exit the roof on the left instead of right. (5.10-) P5 + P6: Would recomment simul-climbing or soloing these pitches. Super fun alpine-style scrambling with phenomenal scenery! (easy 5th) Fang report: At the time of my writing, the deathly Fang rotates at the slightest touch. That being said, I agree with other sensible folks that there is very little risk of it coming dislodged in the immediate future. Either way, avoiding it is really not an issue. Nov 14, 2016

W L NEVADASTAN   5.10

[Hide Comment] A couple of things regarding weekend bandit's 80 meter rope rap beta... 1. The rap from top of 4 to top of 3 is casual. 2. The rap from top of 3 to top of 2 is a legitimate rope stretcher. Make sure you have a true, full 80 meter rope...and be prepared for a very, very slim margin for error in a highly exposed position. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE. Stretch gets you there and not much more. Be ready to grab the ends when the second person is done rapping, I would imagine if the second person lets go and nobody has 'em...some very high stakes shenanigans would ensue. Probably not a fun thing. 3. Rapping from the top of pitch 2 down to the top of Pitch 1 of Sand Felipe is a good option, and certainly possible for those with less than an 80 meter rope (ie: if wanting to climb the crux pitch and nothing else.) The rap anchor mentioned by weekend bandit on the ledge atop P1 (the 5.7 pitch) comes and goes...the anchor atop P1 of Sand Felipe does not. Keep in mind courtesy relative to folks climbing that route, of course. 4. If rapping from Sand Felipe's first pitch anchor (not the one about 15 ft down and 15 ft to the climbers' left of the P2 anchor for Triassic, the one below that), this is your final rap. Rap 90' to the deck. Hope this helps folks. Mar 16, 2017

Flyingmonkeys Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Definitely was a bold rope stretcher with 80m when rapping with Weston L from 3 to 2. Used autoblock (key for locking off with nearly no rope left to set up for next rap) and it ended up sitting on tied ends of rope with a reach to bolts. Can be done but, tie rope ends or die lol seriously though. Had to untie rope ends to rap off once was secured to anchor which was maybe four inches worth. Amazing route! Mar 17, 2017

Aaron Miller Santa Fe, NM

[Hide Comment] Decided to give this line a go at end of the day, looked so nice. Only had a double set of cams, but figured Id be ok in the gold size. Being conservative, I placed other cams when possible and only ended up using one gold. Never felt runout, just have to use other gear when you can. Also, someone overcammed and lost 3 brand new BD ultralight .4 cams in the crux??? I tried to clean them out on the way down, gave up and just pushed them further in so they are not clogging the route. Someone with a longer piece of stiff wire (maybe 2?) might go try to score some nice gear-- its a bit unsightly and would be nice to remove them. May 15, 2017

Josh Janes

[Hide Comment] For future reference, if you come across stuck pro on a climb, and you can't recover it, do not push it deeper in the crack or otherwise fix it even worse. This makes it harder for others to remove (either by keeping the gear intact or destructively in order to simply clean up the climb). Jun 4, 2017

Nate K Bozeman, MT   5.10a/b

[Hide Comment] This climb is really, really good. We took it all the way to the summit which was fun but i definitely wouldn't do it again. I think no matter your route finding the upper pitches are not fourth class, more like crumbly low fifth. The descent off whiskey peak is sunny and hot. Overall though still 5 stars. Pitch one is meh, pitch two is amazing, pitch 3 is cruiser, pitch 4 is funky and memorable, pitch 5 and 6 have nice exposure in a beautiful place and are easily simuled. Bring doubles to three and place nuts outside the pitch 2 splitter if you need more pro. Sep 22, 2017

Eugene Kwan Cambridge, MA

[Hide Comment] Great route! For those who like to sew it up: doubles to 0.75, 1 x #1 camalot, 4 x #2 camalot, 4 x #3 camalot, 1 x #4 camalot, and 1 x #5 camalot. The #5 is only useful on P1. The crux is scrunchy and involves more balance than anything else. It will take a 0.5 camalot (tight) or orange metolius. Only did the first three pitches due to heavy traffic. We did Sand Felipe while waiting. (Apparently the second pitch is unsafe; please see comments for Sand Felipe.) Rapping requires two ropes. I would say both P3 to P2 and P2 to the ground are about 40 m raps. Pull your ropes to the left on the ground to prevent them from getting stuck in the crack. Nov 26, 2017

Ben Fisch Stanford, CA   5.10

[Hide Comment] Note about the climb to the summit above pitch 4: My partner and I found the drag to be impossible. However, we are not the most experienced in managing drag on this type of climbing and perhaps we didn't take the best line. We had to break this into at least 4 pieces. Does anyone have advice for climbing the easy 5th class section to the summit in one or two pitches with a single rope (without simul-climbing)? Nov 27, 2017

zach cook Boise, ID

[Hide Comment] This is a great route that could be a great link up with something else in the area. We only did the first 4 pitches and rapped. First 4 were stellar! Gear: x2 .4-1 3 #2 and 1 #4 P4 my buddy barely rubbed up against the death block under the roof and it moved a good bit, with scary grinding noises...be careful of this thing. Sounds like its ready to go. Feb 21, 2018

Sam Fearer 805

[Hide Comment] I've seen these posts before and now it's my turn: If anyone found a #2 BD Camalot (pre-C4, no thumb loop) with two orange dots on the metal between the lobes, I would love to hear from you. It disappeared on Sunday 4/15. ...No idea how it didn't end up in either rack or pack, but missing the old friend dearly. Thanks a million! That said, the route isn't too bad with a single #2, as long as you bring 2-3 #3's and don't mind running out secure jamming. Fun route. Apr 16, 2018

Ashort Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Looks like the bolted anchor at the pitch 1 ledge has been removed. Either that or my memory is bad and there never was a bolted belay there? Sep 25, 2018

adam.b Flagstaff, AZ

[Hide Comment] Awesome route! I highly recommend bringing two ropes and rapping after climbing pitch 4, the "4th class" to the top was wandery and took forever. It would have been much faster to rappel. As for gear, my prefect rack was: x1 blue metolious Singles .3-.75 BD x2 #1BD x3 #2 and #3 BD 6 runners Sep 27, 2018

Simeon Deming Phila, PA

[Hide Comment] how does this one compare to Nightcrawler? Mar 6, 2019

Tim Heid AZ   5.10b

[Hide Comment] I remember Triassic feeling way easier than Nightcrawler. But, a lot fewer bolts on Triassic compared to NC, if that counts for anything. Both are top choice 5.10's at RR! Mar 12, 2019

Derek Doucet

[Hide Comment] The 5.10 bit of Triassic is brief (but solid), while Nightcrawler is pretty sustained at the grade. Mar 12, 2019

Francois Cote Fredericton, NB   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Excellent route. The 10b crux on the 2nd pitch is very brief. the 10a 4th pitch felt much harder than the second pitch IMO. I guess my corner crack technique needs some work. The guidebook calls the upper part 4th class but I would call it easy 5th class. Definitely a lot more involved than a lot of "4th class" in the area. Mar 29, 2019

Michael Allen Ventura

[Hide Comment] 4th pitch is much better rock quality, perfect sandstone and perfect hands for 30 feet! Then you get some interesting fingers and stemming action unlike the first 3 pitches. Highly recommended. Careful pulling ropes, there are plenty of rope off-cuts in the crack as evidence. Also on 5/17/19 there's a fixed #1 metolius higher up on pitch 3. May 17, 2019

Hans El Grandote

[Hide Comment] RAP BETA: We climbed to top of p4. Left a rope at top of p4. Single 70 rap from top of p4 to top of p3. Double 70 rap from top of p3 to p2 anchor on Sand Felipe. Third and final double 70 rap to ground. No issues with pulls. Oct 2, 2019

Gabriel B Orange County

[Hide Comment] Just did this thing and it was worth the 2 hour wait in line! Advice to anyone wanting to top out: once atop P. 4 there will be an obvious line that heads left. Take this line for a little ways until an impossible looking overhung crack and build a belay to the left. Then step left around the corner and keep trending left until the obvious summit. We did it in 2 pitches with a 70, second pitch used almost all the rope Nov 12, 2019

Tristan P Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Absolutely superb route! 2nd pitch is too good. Didn't climb pitch 4 as my partner and I were both exhausted, looks really good though. Rope got caught twice on descent; once from below because knots at the end of the rope got caught on a plate. And another time when we pulled the rope, between the first and second rap station, and rope got caught on another plate above us! Super annoying, but worth the bitchin climb! Feb 26, 2020

BJ Sbarra Carbondale, CO

[Hide Comment] I know it's been talked about ad nauseam in the comments above, but the giant death flake is very disconcerting and surprising to see on such a popular route. Features like that on most trade routes would get taken care of (loose blocks like this in Eldo get trundled all the time), but local knowledge says it's OK. Hard to believe, I accidentally bumped it with my hip moving into the slot and it moved a foot or more. Pitch 4 was the most interesting pitch on the route, just be aware you will need to climb very close to this feature, and then there is a bunch of wedged choss people are pulling on to move past the bolt. After that the climbing is excellent. Dec 12, 2020

Josh Janes

[Hide Comment] ^ BJ, I will disagree. It is the desert. It is rock climbing. This is not the Front Range and this is not Eldo. When you say "taken care of" I think let's take care to climb with skill and judgement and let's take care to preserve our climbs. That flake is a totally rad feature that may or may not kill someone someday. Much like a wolf or a snake or a sea anemone, sure this flake might be dangerous - but you can observe and appreciate it from a safe distance; you don’t have to kill it. But perhaps more compelling: It has survived at least 650 ascents (according to MP) and it was there at least since I first climbed the route (some 20 years ago) and every time I go up there I look forward to seeing it. What a rad feature: It spins like a prayer wheel or like it’s on ball bearings and it makes me giggle every time I pass it (and it is totally possible to climb around the flake without EVER touching it). I don't see why it needs to be trundled now just because it gives us the heebee jeebies! Dec 12, 2020

Aimee McRae Bend

[Hide Comment] Did any other short climbers feel that the crux of P2 was really hard? I had to pull through it as I couldn’t reach the good hold from the good feet and couldn’t get my feet up to the crimp edge. Apr 10, 2021

Em Hinteregger Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Climbed first four pitches. The fourth was the best pitch, don’t skip it. 4 3s would have been nice but 3 was fine. You don’t need more than 3 2s. We used 2 60s to get down - you can rapp from the top of the fourth pitch with one 60 to leave your second rope on the baller ledge at the top of p3 (slight rope stretcher but totally fine). 2 double rapps from the top of p3. Apr 20, 2021

Jan Tarculas San Diego, Ca

[Hide Comment] A lot of variable comments here on the climbing. 4th pitch is totally worth doing. I thought it felt like 5.9 climbing compared to the rest of the route. Only need a double rack on the 4th pitch. Maybe even just a single rack from .3-3 inch. There's a bolt that protects the moves passing the diving board rock on the right side (you can't see it until you look over the bulge). I bought 4 #2s and 3 #3s. I only placed 2 #2s and used all my 3s. Definitely don't need 4-5 #2s like someone suggested before. I didn't link pitch 1 and 2. We did place the #4 once on the 1st pitch. I didn't see any need for it on pitch 2 or the rest of the climb Apr 22, 2021

Christian Mason Westminster CO

[Hide Comment] I'd suggest a larger (#4 at least) piece for the first pitch, unless you're comfortable running out a lot in ground fall territory. Apr 24, 2021

Mike Climberson Earth

[Hide Comment] This was one of the best routes I've done in Red Rock. In Red Rock it's pretty rare to find such sustained crack climbs. It's also one of the most aesthetic lines in the park. Pitch 4 was great and worth doing. It's easy enough to avoid the death block if you tiptoe around it. This is a climb I'd like to repeat more than once. Be prepared for crowds, as with any non offwidth in BV canyon Nov 13, 2021

Ryan Westby Portland, OR   5.10

[Hide Comment] Had a great time on this route. P2 is a fun crack boulder problem that I think is made 5.10a with at least a 5'9" reach. Any shorter and the required move will bump the grade a couple grades IMO. P4 is really great, and the moveable flake is easily negotiable and not a big deal. A word of warning on P2, the first piece of pro is a crack that is well-protected by a 0.5, however the crack is deep and this part of the pitch bulges out a bit compared to the rest of the pitch, so the rope can easily push the cam deep into the crack. That said, if anyone wants to fish out a 0.5 BD cam and return it to me, I would greatly appreciate it! Mar 21, 2022

Jeff H Seattle, WA   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Climbed this a couple of days ago to the top. What a fun route! Except for P1, the route is stellar. The 0.5 cam at the start of P2 is buried so deep it’s hard to see. On the other hand, there is a stuck 0.3 at the lip just after the P2 opening moves and further up, there are 3 (yes, three) #3 stuck cams (two C4s and one Friend) They could lighten the gear you carry up and better yet, with some work, enhance your rack. May 6, 2022

Yosemite Joe

[Hide Comment] There are some huge mistakes in the description of this route here. The first pitch requires a #5 to protect, otherwise you're soloing that pitch. Don't worry about the weight, it's the first piece you place. Also the description for p3 says "mostly thin crack" ????? HUH?!? It's mostly FIST crack... Jan 31, 2023

Patrick Mulligan Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] So climbed this again after another decade absence. I ended up using some aid to get through the first moves at the start this go around, which was both a sign of how I've changed as a climber (weaker and older) and a sign of how much the start holds after the opening move have changed (smoother corner to the crack and the initial rail is no longer positive.) This totally changed the opening sequence for me. Still so much fun! Interesting to see that I'm not the only thing that's aging in my climbing life... May 9, 2023

Victor L Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Favorite multi in red rock (so far). I couldn't figure out how to get into the p4 dihedral avoiding both the loose fin and the wedged blocks above it. I chose to avoid the fin but jammed and pulled on a block. FWIW the blocks seemed secure. This move felt harder than the p2 crux but perhaps my beta was bad. After gaining the dihedral your crack climbing/stemming skills will be tested just long enough to feel like you're in the creek before a jug appears to bail you out of the crack in classic red rocks fashion. I exited the roof climber's left with some weird climbing. Beware an EXTREMELY loose toaster block around 10 feet from the P4 anchor, in the crack after the roof. I was distractedly eyeing the anchor and shifted this block half an inch before gingerly pushing it back in place. P4 bulges and wanders a bit so bring runners. We followed a previous commenter's beta and left our second rope at the p4 base ledge and easily rapped back to the ledge on a 70. Overall I found the fourth pitch worthy and challenging. Jun 7, 2023

Esther P Mostly CA   5.10+

[Hide Comment] If you're under 5'9" the crux moves on P2 require a deadpoint to the rail. I used a small pocket on the left to help me balance then dyno to the rail. I'd say this ups the grade to about 5.10c for shorter climbers. Oct 22, 2023

Doug Leonard CA

[Hide Comment] Absolutely classic climb. It's really easy to get gear stuck at the beginning of pitch 2. Your first piece is in a 0.4-0.5's crack after a 15 foot traverse across a ledge from the belay. The crack is super parallel and deep so it's easy for your cam to walk so deep inside the crack that you can't retrieve it even though the piece isn't overcammed. I watched a friend in the party in front of me fix a piece so I slung my gear long but I think this made matters worse— the cam can only walk so deep if it's clipped directly. Are locals heading up there with shoelaces and coat hangers whenever they need new finger sized cams? Dec 4, 2023

the rock bobster New London, WI   5.10

[Hide Comment] Who said you have to be a local? Crux protects well with a freshly-reslung orange thumb-loop Metolius Master Cam. Mar 12, 2024

Wes Arrrr Venice, CA

[Hide Comment] One can link the first two pitches with a 70m without much rope drag. We topped out, following wandering fifth class after the 4th pitch, but it took a while and in retrospect wasn't really worth it. Definitely do the 4th pitch!! Apr 14, 2024

Patrick Mulligan Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] Just a note about how last year, doing the route again after 10 years or more away from it: The opening moves of pitch 2 are much harder than they were in the routes younger days. The face holds on the left wall have been work to Adam Ondra size where crimps once existed. Get your crack on for the opening sequence. May 11, 2024

Kyle Broxterman Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Gear: Doubles from .3 to 3, with 4 x #2's, 3 x #3s, and a #4. Could have left the four, if you really want to stitch the first pitch bring a #5. Double 70m ropes (Unnecessary I know, its all I had). If this is really at your limit, bring an extra .4 and another #2. Strategy Link pitch 1 and 2. I've climbed pitching them out, and this was far superior, and definitely don't miss pitch 4 it very well might be the best pitch on the route. Other Notes: 1) Watch out for a super loose block right before the anchors atop pitch 4! This thing needs to be trundled safely. 2) Leave your tagline or second rope at the top of pitch 3 ready to rappel on (provided there are not other parties below you of course and this makes for a speedy decent. 3) The crack after rappelling pitch 4 will eat your rope during the pull, there are some lost souls already. I recommend leading with a thin rope for this pitch ( May 27, 2024

Andy Gonzalez   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] Great route. I brought 3 #2s and 3 #3s, didn't find it to be crucial but nice to have. Only brought 1 rope so no rap if you want to rap bring double ropes. After fourth pitch is was about 2 pitches to the top of 5.5-5.6. Rock was not bad. Descent shoots you out facing the parking lot. Crux on second pitch was hard and 4th pitch Crux was solid w the bolt no need to even touch that death flake. Dec 15, 2024