Twist and Crawl (aka Slice of Time)
5.14 YDS 8c+ French 34 Ewbanks XI- UIAA 34 ZA E9 7b British
Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | prep: Chris Hill, 1980s. FFA: Mike Anderson, Mark Anderson |
Page Views: | 3,630 total · 52/month |
Shared By: | Matt Reeser on Apr 19, 2019 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route was first bolted by Chris Hill in the 1980s and was attempted by a few of the local legends. It didn't have an anchor and was approached as a second pitch to Darkness Till Dawn. A flaky,unprotected traverse brought you to the start of the climb.
Over the years, it has seen some interest from well known climbers, but because of the bolting ban, it sat untouched.
This climb now has a two bolt anchor and a direct start. You can climb this route from the ground in one monster, mouth watering, 40 meter pitch! Mega!
It's 14 bolts, but you might want to hang a 6 and 7 foot sling from two of the bolts down low. Don't expect any respect from Christian if you do. If you can climb 5.14, you should be able to climb 12d/13a R. You should also untie and solo off when you get to the anchor.
All of the bolts up high were once ring bolts but have since been replaced with fat glue-ins.
This is probably the hardest line in the park.
Over the years, it has seen some interest from well known climbers, but because of the bolting ban, it sat untouched.
This climb now has a two bolt anchor and a direct start. You can climb this route from the ground in one monster, mouth watering, 40 meter pitch! Mega!
It's 14 bolts, but you might want to hang a 6 and 7 foot sling from two of the bolts down low. Don't expect any respect from Christian if you do. If you can climb 5.14, you should be able to climb 12d/13a R. You should also untie and solo off when you get to the anchor.
All of the bolts up high were once ring bolts but have since been replaced with fat glue-ins.
This is probably the hardest line in the park.
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