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Elevation: 7,292 ft 2,223 m
GPS: 39.99846, -105.41397
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Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 2, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Upper Animal World is home to a host outoutstanding hard climbs. This is a top destination for 5.12 sport climbers in Boulder Canyon. The rock faces east and has more shade than other parts of Animal World.

Getting There Suggest change

Park in the same pullout as the Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon, the large parking is on the left just after a long sweeping right turn in the road), walk up the road past the Boulderado cliff, and find the trail at the "Slow Vehicles Stay Left" sign. Follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right (look for cairns) above the Boulderado. Cross easy slabs, and go across level-ish terrain until you get to the routes of the Lower Animal World.

Pass all the routes and when they peter out, just continue east on the trail a couple hundred yards staying mostly level (don't go uphill to Middle Animal World).

L->R:

Suggest change
A. Krakatoa, 10, 2p, gear.
B. The Fifth World, 12, 1p, gear.
BC. The Fifth Destiny, 12+, 1p, bolts +/- gear.
C. Hands of Destiny, 12+, 2p, 60m rope req'd, gear & bolts.
D. Animal Instinct, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Sundog, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Evolution Revolution, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Global Gorilla, 12, 1-3p, 170', bolts.
H. Animal Magnetism, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
I. Animal Antagonizer, 13+?, 1p, bolts.
J. Cujo Magnetism, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Cujo Tranquilizer, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
L. Pit Bull Prowser, 13-, 1-2p, bolts.
M. Wandervogel, 11- R (crosses Cujo Tranquilizer), 2p, gear.
N. New Beginnings, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head, 11+, 3p, 150', bolts & gear.

P.? ??, 11, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.

15 Total Climbs

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Location: Upper Animal World Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Animal World

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 436
Animal Magnetism
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 25
New Beginnings
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
P1 of Global Gorilla (submitted…
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 89
Sundog
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 73
Cujo Tranquilizer
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
Evolution Revolution
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
The Fifth World
Trad, Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 113
Global Gorilla
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 102
Animal Instinct
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 107
Hands of Destiny
Sport 2 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 18
Pit Bull Prowser
Sport 2 pitches
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Closer To God
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Animal Magnetism
 436
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
New Beginnings
 25
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
P1 of Global Gorilla (submi…
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sundog
 89
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Cujo Tranquilizer
 73
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Evolution Revolution
 21
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Fifth World
 32
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Global Gorilla
 113
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Animal Instinct
 102
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Hands of Destiny
 107
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Pit Bull Prowser
 18
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport 2 pitches
Closer To God
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Animal World »

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