All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One

Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur

Name: Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur
Rating: 1.5

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Better Layton Never S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Consummation Nite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Dandelion Wine S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Disclosure (new name) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	E.L. 200 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	E.L.100 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Eleven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
	Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Magic Route T C2+
	Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Parting Shot T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Psychosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Rocky Raccoon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Rover T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
	Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
	Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,136 total · 17/month
Shared By:	George Bracksieck on Sep 25, 2014
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This variation isn't found in any databases or guidebooks that I have seen, and it seems no less significant than many of the routes listed herein or therein - which isn't saying much.

On Feb. 19, 1984, I led a variation to the third pitch of The Yellow Spur. It begins from a belay atop the second-pitch variation (Dalke/Ament, 1962, 5.8), the right-facing dihedral that goes straight up from the top of Yellow Spur's first pitch. Above this second-pitch dihedral, I climbed up into another right-facing dihedral. Where this dihedral ended, I climbed over a rotten bulge and continued up to the red traverse ledge, arriving near the base of the giant, left-facing dihedral on the Yellow Spur's fourth pitch. My partner was Anne Leibold.

Location

This variation begins atop the Dalke/Ament variation to the second pitch of The Yellow Spur.

Protection

SR. I remember fiddling with pro for a long time before committing to surmount the rotten bulge and heading farther into unknown territory, while Anne encouraged me to retreat. The sun was going down.