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Wall of the '90s Rock Climbing
Routes in Wall of the '90s
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.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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7-Minute Abs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creekside Prophet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Curvaceous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Mission Overdrive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,621 ft | 2,018 m |
| GPS: |
39.7388, -105.3222 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 259,363 total · 886/month | |
| Shared By: | Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
This is a fantastic crag with a short, steep, somewhat slippery approach. A host of excellent climbs reside here, most being in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. The guidebook doesn't lie in saying that this is some of the best rock in the canyon. Reefer Madness, Recovery, Wet Dream... climb any one of 'em and you'll agree! The climbs can be long here, but a single 60m rope will work for most; knot the ends if in doubt.
Just uphill (to the left) are the crags, The Monkey House and Death Rock.
Just uphill (to the left) are the crags, The Monkey House and Death Rock.
Getting There
Get to US 6 (the wall is nearer the Golden end of the canyon). The crag is immediately west of Tunnel 2 (5.1 miles west of Tunnel 1). There is a sizeable pullout on the south side of the highway. There's plenty of room to park, but because of all the scree above, the closer you park to the base of the hill, the more likely you are to go home with a crater in your hood. Follow one of two paths up to the base of the wall. There are a few markers you can use to get oriented: On the right side of the wall, there is a large eye bolt at the base of Reefer Madness. In the central region, there is a belay bolt at the base of Recovery & Foxy. Of the climbs on the left end, Hey Good Lookin' is the line that goes out the leftmost big roof crack.
L->R:
A. Alone Time with my Banana, 6 PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
B. Leftover Stuff, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
C. Hot Stuff, 10, 1p, 135', bolts.
D. Pretty Woman, 10-, 1p, 95', bolts.
E1. 7-Minute Abs, 14, 1p, 120', bolts.
E2. Hey Good Lookin', 11+, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Squeezing in a bit of Texas, 11-, 1p, TR.
G. Vixen, 11-, 1p, bolts.
above G. Harlot, 13+, 1p, 110', bolts.
above G. Hellcat, 14-, 1p, 115', bolts.
H. Y2K, 12, 1p, 120', bolts.
I. Slinky, 12+, 1p.
IH. Extension Goin' The Distance, 12+, 1p, 130', bolts.
J. Sweet Thing, 13, 1p, 140', bolts.
K. Recovery, 10+, 1p, ~100', bolts.
L. Foxy, 11 PG-13, 1p, <100', bolts.
M. Little Kitten, 10 PG-13, 1p, bolts.
above M. Slender Babe, 12+, 1p, bolts.
N. Curvaceous, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Wet Dream, 12-, 1p, 105', bolts.
P. Centerfold, 11-, 2p, 120', bolts.
Q1. Ten Digit Dialing, 12+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q2. Reefer Madness, 11-, 1p, bolts.
above Q2. Porn Queen, 11+, 1p, 100', bolts.
RQ2. Stone Free, 11, 1p, bolts.
above R or Q2. Casual Stone, 11, bolts.
above R or Q2. Creekside Prophet, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.
S. Casual Gods, 11, 1p, gear.
T. Double Stout to 1st anchors, 13-, 1p, bolts. Above Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout): 14-, 115', bolts.
U. Back and Tan, 13-, 1p, bolts.
V. .30-06, 11, 1p, gear.
VX. Wiled Horses, 13-, 1p, 115', gear & bolts.
W. American Mustang, 14-, 1p, 115', bolts.
X. Roadrunner, 11-, 1p, gear.
YX. Mission Plausible, 14-, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
Y. Mission Impossible, 14, 1p, 90', bolts.
YZ. Mission Overdrive, 14-, 1p, 70', bolts.
Z. Interstellar Overdrive, 13+, 1p, bolts.
The Strange Iron Handle, location?
B. Leftover Stuff, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
C. Hot Stuff, 10, 1p, 135', bolts.
D. Pretty Woman, 10-, 1p, 95', bolts.
E1. 7-Minute Abs, 14, 1p, 120', bolts.
E2. Hey Good Lookin', 11+, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Squeezing in a bit of Texas, 11-, 1p, TR.
G. Vixen, 11-, 1p, bolts.
above G. Harlot, 13+, 1p, 110', bolts.
above G. Hellcat, 14-, 1p, 115', bolts.
H. Y2K, 12, 1p, 120', bolts.
I. Slinky, 12+, 1p.
IH. Extension Goin' The Distance, 12+, 1p, 130', bolts.
J. Sweet Thing, 13, 1p, 140', bolts.
K. Recovery, 10+, 1p, ~100', bolts.
L. Foxy, 11 PG-13, 1p, <100', bolts.
M. Little Kitten, 10 PG-13, 1p, bolts.
above M. Slender Babe, 12+, 1p, bolts.
N. Curvaceous, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Wet Dream, 12-, 1p, 105', bolts.
P. Centerfold, 11-, 2p, 120', bolts.
Q1. Ten Digit Dialing, 12+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q2. Reefer Madness, 11-, 1p, bolts.
above Q2. Porn Queen, 11+, 1p, 100', bolts.
RQ2. Stone Free, 11, 1p, bolts.
above R or Q2. Casual Stone, 11, bolts.
above R or Q2. Creekside Prophet, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.
S. Casual Gods, 11, 1p, gear.
T. Double Stout to 1st anchors, 13-, 1p, bolts. Above Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout): 14-, 115', bolts.
U. Back and Tan, 13-, 1p, bolts.
V. .30-06, 11, 1p, gear.
VX. Wiled Horses, 13-, 1p, 115', gear & bolts.
W. American Mustang, 14-, 1p, 115', bolts.
X. Roadrunner, 11-, 1p, gear.
YX. Mission Plausible, 14-, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
Y. Mission Impossible, 14, 1p, 90', bolts.
YZ. Mission Overdrive, 14-, 1p, 70', bolts.
Z. Interstellar Overdrive, 13+, 1p, bolts.
The Strange Iron Handle, location?
Classic Climbing Routes at Wall of the '90s
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Routes Mostly Face: West
Sunny Roughly 12pm to 8pm
during high season
6am
8pm
Weather Averages
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Prime Climbing Season
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| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
![[Prairie Rattler]. He was very comfortable in the middle of the trail. The snake was moved twice and both times ended up right back in the middle of the trail. No rattle, even when we moved him with a stick.](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/106213501_smallMed_1494088641.jpg?cache=1729872231)
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