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West Face [3rd Flatrion]

Name: West Face [3rd Flatrion]
Rating: 3.0

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in Third Flatiron

L › R R › L A › Z

	1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
	East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Exit Through The Gift Shop V0 4
	Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Fail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Falcon's Fracture T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Flailure (Is Not an Option) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
	Holier than Thou S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Misled Youth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	More Mellow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Negative Space (P1) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Panda Rigolo S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Panda Scat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pandammic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pentaprance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pile In the Sky S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
	Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
	Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA:	R. Briggs, J. Bragg 1973
Page Views:	3,321 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Aug 2, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023 Details

Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.

bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.

Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.

Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:

bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.

Description

To approach this climb, ascend as necessary to the West Face (backside) of the Third Flatiron. The route starts on the north side, below an obvious, wide crack, ascending up to and through said wide crack (one 5.9 move near a #3.5 or #4 Camalot), then up and right under a roof with scant protection (5.9) which ends in a big move to a hidden side-pull.

The crux comes some 100' off of the deck. Place a a few poor stoppers at the lip of a small roof, then pull up into the dihedral above on juggy holds to place a good 0.5" or 0.75" cam. The crux is pulling over the lip and into the left-leaning, finger crack. A second cam (0.75-1") can be placed mid crux if desired. Make a nice technical move to establish yourself into good finger locks and complete the crack to a ledge of sorts. make way to the South (right) and belay off of a drilled pin and a slung boulder/horn.

Finish on one of several rounout, but easy finishes on the right, possibly Friday's Folly Direct.

Protection

A standard rack one set of stoppers, small tricams and one set of cams to a #4 camalot. Include a good number of 2' slings, as the route and protection wander.

Protection at the crux is solid .5"-1" cams, but there is some rising traverse leading to this point which is 5.8 or 5.9 and runout.

The belay is a cord around a big boulder and an old pin to the side (so-so) to put the belay point above you, a pink tricam or #8-9 stopper can be placed in some so-so rock. It is your call.