Wherever I May Roam
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde, 2000 |
Page Views: | 79,427 total · 349/month |
Shared By: | Bryson Slothower on May 2, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Start by climbing Adventurous 9904 which is on a large pillar. From near Asterisk pass the pillar looks partially detached. Shade in the morning, 5th pitch gives you sun past the first bolt; a well-deserved warm up in the cold months. 2nd-3rd, 4th-5th pitches can be linked using a 70m rope.
Pitch 1: 5.8
Romp up on knobs past several bolts to the top of the Pillar and belay.
Pitch 2: 5.9
Start by leaning over the chimney that separates the main wall and the pillar to clip a bolt then step across. Crux is right below the second bolt. Climb up and left to a belay anchor.
Pitch 3: 5.9
Move up and left to a small ledge just above the belay and make an airy move onto the face. Climb up and left on knobs and pockets, airy and exciting! There is another bolted line that goes straight up a few bolts after stepping across, do not follow it. Belay at the base of an arete after about 60 feet.
Pitch 4: 5.9
Make a few exciting moves up the arete before veering right and following an edge dropping away below your feet. The climbing eases a bit before reaching a belay on a low angled slab.
Pitch 5: 5.8
Race up the slab and then finish on jugs on one final steep section of the headwall and belay.
Descent
Rappel option:
With single 60m rope...
1- Rappel from the perch to the ledge below. Rap to the East. Walk down hill about 50 feet and look for another rappel anchor on the West side.
2- Rap back down to the anchor on the arete at the start of pitch 4. There is another possible rap point that has more secure bolts just before the one from the start of pitch 4 however it can only be used with a 70m rope.
3- Rap down and look for another anchor on a ledge to the right a bit.
4- Rap to the ground.
Walk-off option:
From the anchors scramble up and climbers right through a notch. Follow the cairns and trail, going from the east to the west side of the ridge, always heading generally south. The ridge mellows out and turns into a climbers trail which drops down a drainage to the west and curves back around to the base. Be careful not to drop down too soon as the first drainage that you encounter after the ridge turns to dirt cliffs out. Stay on the use trail until you can see the bottom.
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