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Wholesome Fullback
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 488
votes
Routes in North Face
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Amber T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Closed on Monday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ixtlan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Matzoland S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miss Conception T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Open-and-Shut T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quarantine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Tales from the Gripped T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | 1975, Cal Folsom and Lars Holbek |
| Page Views: | 26,714 total · 105/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Mar 18, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route ascends the left side of the large pillar at the right side of Whiskey Peak. Approach from the streambed up a trail just past a house-sized boulder on the right side of the wash.
I'll describe 3 pitches but any two can be combined.
P1 (5.10a, 50'): climb a thin crack just right of a dihedral that leads up to the obvious crack higher up. The crux comes almost immediately and is well protected. Once you are at the level of the pillar on your left, step left to belay at a bolted anchor atop the pillar. A sandbag at 5.10a, but well protected.
P2 (5.10b, 50'): climb the handcrack to a roof. Instead of following the crack through the roof, traverse right to the next crack and pull through a hard move (5.10b) which is well protected. Then continue up the nice handcrack above. There are multiple spots to setup a semi-hanging gear belay after the crux, although I recommend linking with P3 if you have enough gear to avoid a hanging belay.
P3: (5.8, 110'): climb an excellent hand crack to the top of the pillar. Eventually the handcrack will turn into a large, deep chimney. Go up into the chimney and emerge on the other side of the chimney at a rap anchor on a nice ledge. Don't forget to check out the summit of the pillar.
Rap off the P3 anchor on the other side of the pillar. Two 60m ropes will take you all the way down. An intermediate anchor allows descent with just one rope. For added excitement you can TR Our Father (5.10d) on the way down.
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