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Wizard and Glass
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 61
votes
Routes in Candy Mountain
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Abba-zaba S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Achilles Heel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Angst S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bald Ambitions S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Banana Laffy Taffy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Better Call Saul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Big League Chew S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Big Sky (extension) S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Booger Sugar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bumpers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Candy Ass S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Candy Panties S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Candy Panties (Extension Right) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cerebral Moment S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crème Brûlée S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Discount Bungie Jump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Elder Statesman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eye Candy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Frogland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Frontier Justice (extension) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Gracious Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Great Hog Farm Fire of '97, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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He's Not Your Buddy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hive Mind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hive Mind (Extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Heart Joe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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I Heart Joe (Extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ironman (Open Project) S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Kozzybear S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Little Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nose Candy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Not His Panties (link-up) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Obturation (Project) S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Oompa Loompa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Powder Puff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Quantum Foam S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Queen Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sea of Trees S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sex & Candy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Short Round S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Six Inches From Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stark Industries S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stinger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Styx S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sugar Burner S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Sugar Daddy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sugar Pill S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sweet Tooth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet'n Low S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tainted Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Top Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ungracious Lee S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Willy Wonka S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wizard and Glass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wonkamobile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wormhole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tony Morris, Rick Cedarburg 1995 |
| Page Views: | 2,638 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Creed Archibald on Jun 5, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Tyler KC, JD Borgeson |
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Description
A rarity! A hard slab climb in Arkansas. The rock is bomber, the bolts are well spaced, and all the clips are made from good holds.
For shorter people, this route will have two cruxes: first above the 2nd bolt and again after the 4th or 5th bolt. Tall people (over 6 ft) can bypass the first crux by reaching to a jug, but they will have to figure our the delicate second crux.
For shorter people, this route will have two cruxes: first above the 2nd bolt and again after the 4th or 5th bolt. Tall people (over 6 ft) can bypass the first crux by reaching to a jug, but they will have to figure our the delicate second crux.
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