Leopard (표범)

The left most route of Senin-bong and one of the classics. Did the first 3 pitches of the route and was not disappointed. Had to bail after the 3rd after one of my partners dropped her phone while climbing the 3rd slab pitch. (the phone miraculously survived). I will updated the top pitches after I finish them. 

Pitch 1 (25m, 5.10c): Plug in a small cam and go up using the very greasy and worn footholds and finger jams. The gear placements are definitely all there but falls and broken ankles happen all the time here so be extra mindful of your placements and make sure you and your belayer are attentive. After getting a .4 in and pulling through the finger/small hand jam, smile up a very satisfying hand crack for about 10-12 meters. This part eats up cams from 0.5-2. After, clip the bolt, or put in a few 0.1s here and gun up the thin lay back section. The top section has several places to put gear from the .5-1 range so hold on to one unless you want to run it out 30 feet. Near the top, you have a choice, to belay your seconds from the anchors on the right, or to traverse the slab left and belay from the anchors there. Even while stepping on the plaque there, this 3 m traverse part is extremely difficult. Most people sling a double sling at the bolt, grab the end, and swing over to the ledge safety to the anchors. 

Pitch 2 (25m, 5.9) 

Go up a very thin, greasy layback section, clipping bolts or placing gear as you go. The gear placements are there, but again, are very thin. As you go up, you will traverse a series of beautiful flakes that sound hollow when you hit them but for the most part are solid. Extend your placements with alpine draws as the gear is solid but have a tendency to walk. Skip the first anchor and keep going. The end move is a bit funky but not overtly difficult.

Pitch 3. (15m, 5.7).

Go up an awkward section, grabbing a giant flake on the right. Protect yourself with a very solid .75 placement and traverse the most sandbagged 5.7 slab I have done in my life. Bolts are far apart. Anchors are in an obvious place. 

Start left of the big flake, or on it. Dealer's choice.