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Central Pillar of Frenzy
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.8 from 1,175
votes
Routes in 6. Middle Cathedral Rock
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Bircheff-Williams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Border Country T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Bottom Feeder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Cat Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Central Pillar of Frenzy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chicken Ten-D's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Coffee Snob T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Corner Pocket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Desperate for Doughnuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Direct Start to Central Pillar T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0 |
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Ennui T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Exodus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fall Guy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Father Time T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Feel so Numb S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Flakes, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Freewheelin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Gaia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ |
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Gaia (1st 7 pitches) T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Grand Wazoo, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ho Chi Minh Trail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hole in One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Home Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Kor-Beck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lap Lobster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Micro-Apron Far Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Micro-Apron Far Right T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Micro-Apron Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Modern Alchemy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monogamish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mother Earth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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No Butts About It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Paradise Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pedestal, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pee Pee Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pee Pee Pillar Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Punny People T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quicksilver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Rainbow bridge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ramer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reefer Cruise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scorpion Tale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Slip on Slime S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Space Babble T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Spank Your Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stand And Deliver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stoner's Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Stupid Pet Tricks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sweet Thang T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tapestry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Tears of Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Together Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Top Dog S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Up the Down Staircase T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Volkswagen Mechanic, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Walk of Life T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Bridwell, Roger Breedlove, Dale Bard, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 92,879 total · 416/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Central Pillar of Frenzy is a super-popular line up the obvious pillar on the lefthand side of Middle Cathedral's northeast face. There are almost always several parties on, or in line for, this climb because of it's excellent, though perhaps never outstanding, five pitches of sustained crack climbing. The climb is actually nine pitches, but does anyone bother with the last four?
P1: Begin in a right-facing corner on the right side of the pillar. Climb this slick corner to a final difficult move pulling onto the pillar itself. Belay at bolts. This pitch is the crux and is 5.9.
P2: Head left and up a great 5.9 finger crack system to another bolted belay.
P3: Continue up through a 5.8 roof and then up a 5.8 OW to another belay. This pitch and the next are probably the best on the route -- save a bigger cam for above the roof.
P4: Climb sweet twin cracks up to another bolted belay. 5.8.
P5: Continue up one more pitch (beginning with a chimney) of nice cracks to a final belay. 5.9.
New rap line added in 2022.
Descent: 6 raps with single 70m.
The first rap anchor is just left of the pitch 5 anchor. IMPORTANT: From first anchor, go hard climber’s left earlier than you think over the arete. If you go down and then go left, your rope will get stuck on the arete/bulge and shenanigans will ensue (you won’t reach the next anchor station). Next five raps are pretty much straight down. The penultimate rap seems like it could reach the ground, but definitely does not with a 70m. Don’t skip the last rap.
1: From top of pitch 5, go hard climbers left around corner to fat metolius hangers with chain. With a 70, you'll be ~3m above the rope ends. *don’t go to the lower, easier to spot, rap hangers without chain.
2: Straight down and left to bad stance on face (new anchor w/ quick links)
3: Straight down and left to anchor on ledge.
4: Down to another ledge.
5: Short rap to bad stance.
6: Rap to ground.
Do not leave food in your packs -- the bears know.
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